The Unforgettable Fire, Part II

So, in case you haven’t noticed (and most probably haven’t), the last five titles of my entries have been song titles.  I find it interesting to find a song title that I like and wrap the title around some subject that I can relate to.  “The Unforgettable Fire” is a little different, however, as this title comes from the source.  “The Unforgettable Fire” is the name of U2’s 1984 album and the album’s second single.  But it goes back farther than that.  On U2’s 1983 tour the band visited Chicago and one of the city’s art museums had an exhibit on the atomic bomb.  One painting depicted a skinless person walking among piles of dead bodies.  It was called The Unforgettable Fire.

     And let me tell you, Hiroshima does not allow anyone to forget the fire.  The Hiroshima Peace Museum is a large museum that does not hold back at all on horrific imagery.  In it, visitors can look at pictures of burn victims, models of the 90% destroyed city center, and life-size mannequins with burned skin falling off their arms.  It’s a quite harrowing and solemn experience. The overall point of the museum is much like that of Osaka’s Peace Museum, as about 1/3 of the exhibits call for nuclear disarmament, but the content of the museum is, of course, much more extreme.  We had a Japanese woman who survived the bomb as a speaker, and you could tell that she was very emotional about her story.  While the English translation was a little rough, I am glad I had the opportunity to listen to her.  The accompanying Hiroshima Peace Park is a beautiful area that includes many monuments–including a children’s memorial–and an eternal flame.  Not far off is the famous atomic bomb dome, which formally served as an administrative building and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

     Hiroshima goes further, however, by having monuments scattered all over the city as well as dead trees with little labels on them stating, “Atomic Bombed Tree.”  I hate to be slightly critical here, but the city seems to lay on the “We were bombed” status just a little too thick.  The event of course needs to be remembered, but it’s hard to walk anywhere without a reminder.

     I think this is sad because Hiroshima is a city that can stand easily today on its own.  Hiroshima Castle offered great views of the city and had extensive grounds with foundations of old buildings as well as fully-bloomed plum blossom trees.  The nearby Shukkei-en Garden was picturesque, with multiple bridges, waterfalls, and flowers.  The city has many rivers, and all have easily accessible walkways to walk along, and the downtown was a lot of fun.  The oceanfront offers views of the Seto Inland Sea, and nearby is the island of Miyajima, which had some of the most beautiful views I have ever seen.  I felt that the stigma of being an atomically-bombed city was holding Hiroshima back, as the city has so much else to offer.  It’s one thing to not forget, but it’s another to push the issue into view at every opportunity, and Hiroshima doesn’t need to use a crutch.  Therefore, while I will always remember Hiroshima’s Peace Park and Museum, they will not be the things I remember the most about Hiroshima.

House Special

Kobe is famous for Kobe beef!  Kobe beef is available in the U.S. for often wildly expensive prices, and it’s just as expensive in Japan.  BUT IT’S WORTH IT!  Kobe beef is from cows that were treated very well, even massaged.  The result is an extremely tender piece of meat that can even be cut with chopsticks!  It was an excellent meal and it was well worth trying the famous meal at its home.

I could be a beef enthusiast…

The Unforgettable Fire, Part I

On Thursday I decided to check on the status of my local amusement park for the third time.  So I hopped on a train for two stops and got off to see it was closed.  Yet for some reason open on Wednesdays, so maybe one day I’ll get around to translating the website.  Armed with unfilled time, I decided to go to Osaka and visit the harbor.  I thought that there might be something fun to do there and I wanted to make sure that the ocean wasn’t a myth.  I impressed myself with my subway map reading skills and got off at the right spot.  In the area was the world’s fifth-largest Ferris Wheel, the Tempozan Giant Wheel.  I had to get on SOME form of amusement ride so I paid and got on.  I took some great pictures of the harbor and the views were incredible.  I explored a little more, and then I went home.

The following Saturday, my trip to Osaka was different.  I went with a friend to the Osaka Aquarium, followed by Osaka Castle (which also had great views).  But our primary destination was the Osaka Peace Museum.  The museum focuses partly on the firebombing of Japanese cities, mainly Osaka, Kobe, and Tokyo, but of course the atomic bombs are also mentioned.  However, the general point of the museum is to expose the horrors of war in an effort to avoid war in the future.  Something I found interesting was that the museum does not try to hide Japan’s aggression in the war.  They say quite plainly that Japan was the cause of the conflict–starting with their war with China–and not the effect.  I’ve heard that some Japanese textbooks gloss over Japan’s war crimes, so I found it good that the museum spoke the truth.  The museum was quite interesting and featured replicas of some of the bombs dropped, and well as models of sections of the burned-out city.  They even had an exhibit on the German death camps, also for the purpose of exposing the aggressors of World War II.  An animated film was also shown, which quickly turned very graphic and focused on a family in Osaka during the firebombing.  The museum ended up being an interesting but bleak experience (much like this blog article), and I was very glad that I went.

Up in Flames

Reading through my Japanese guidebook, I noticed that fires and other natural disasters seem to have plagued various historical sites.  For instance, Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), in Kyoto was burned in 1950 by a disturbed monk.  The current structure was built in 1955, and I find it interesting that such a well-known Japanese structure is actually in fact relatively new.

More recently, I had the opportunity to visit Nara–an old city that was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784.  Nara is famous for many things, however possibly the most interesting are the (mostly) domesticated deer that wander freely around Nara Park.  I say “mostly” domesticated as they will stop at seemingly nothing to get food once they see that you have it.  Deer food is available to buy and after getting it in my hand I was immediately crowded, chomped at, and nearly mowed over.  Still, the deer’s presence adds variety to a normal walk in the park, and it’s fun to watch car drivers navigate around them.

Nara has experienced disasters of its own.  Kofukuji Temple, with its five-story pagoda, has burned down five times.  The current one dates from 1426, while the original dated from 730.  Another major attraction in Nara is Daibutsu–the Great Buddha.  This statue is the second-largest bronze Buddha in Japan and is housed in the Daibutsuden–the largest wooden structure in the entire world.  In 855, the statue lost its head due to an earthquake.  It was rebuilt only to be melted in a fire that broke out in the building.  The current head is from 1692.

The point of this mini history lesson is that the constant threat of natural disasters is something that greatly affects Japan.  Structures (and rollercoasters) built today in Japan are made to withstand earthquakes of powerful magnitudes, but the earthquake/tsunami/nuclear disaster combo of March 2011 was only the most recent example of the horrors that can occur in this small island nation.  The rebuilt temples and statues also serve as reminders of nature’s violent past in Japan.

But no matter what happens, hopefully Nara will always have its deer.

Taken at Dotonburi in Osaka.

Fascination Street

Somewhere between the neverending trips to Kyoto I found time to visit my other nearby metropolis, Osaka.  I don’t mean to make neverending trips to Kyoto sound like a bad thing, because there are far, far more historical and cultural things to do in Kyoto than there are in Osaka, but honestly a trip to Osaka was long overdue.

And, if anything can be said about Osaka to make it superior to Kyoto (aside from Universal Studios) it’s the fact that Osaka feels like a big city.  It really felt almost like Chicago or New York walking around the tall skyscrapers and taking the subway.  It’s feeling of “bigness” is something Kyoto just doesn’t seem to have as much of.

Osaka is the third biggest city in Japan.  I believe it used to be the second, but has been overtaken by Yokohama.  In my view, Yokohama seems more like a glorified suburb of Tokyo than it does its own city (sort of like Aurora now being the second biggest city in Illinois even though it would be nothing if Chicago weren’t 45 minutes away).

Nonetheless, Osaka really does have that “big city” feel, and nothing was more exemplary of that than when I visited Dotonburi, a vibrant, bright, neon-esque little street in downtown Osaka.  I took some pictures I might get up here eventually, but there were probably more people on this street and surrounding area than I have ever seen in my life.  I know that Japan’s population is dropping significantly year by year, but there was absolutely no evidence of this on that night!  Part of the reason for this is because it is–of course–a giant city.  I’ve learned in one of my classes that a government measure has been to centralize headquarters of major companies in big cities (mostly Tokyo).  This is partially responsible for the extreme population density in the big city areas, and the long commute times for anyone working in cities.  The neighborhoods around the Osaka/Kyoto area that I’ve explored are packed in very tight.  Houses are small and yards also.  Anyway all these people have to go somewhere and I guess it’s Osaka on Friday nights…

Anyway, Dotonburi was fascinating, and I also went to karaoke with some friends.  Singing U2 was never so much fun, with the exception of a U2 concert.  Also an interesting experience was a Chinese restaurant that played contemporary popular music.  There was one case where the Macarena  was played.  And I thought…okay…a Spanish song that was popularized in the U.S. being played in a Chinese restaurant in Japan…  Small world.

Kyoto Now!

     Kyoto–a former capital of Japan–is located an easy 30-minute train ride away from where I live.  And I have already been there a total of four times.  The only major Japanese city to escape WWII bombings, Kyoto is one of the most picturesque cities in Japan, and the place is overflowing with gardens, temples, and shrines.

The first trip to Kyoto gave me an opportunity to visit Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion.  I went with my host family the second time and visited Ryoanji, the famous rock garden, as well as Kiyomizu, a temple with one of the best views of Kyoto anywhere.  A third trip had me making my own Mattcha tea, which was cool.  Tasted like dirt, but still pretty fun to make, and mattcha ice cream is very good.  The fourth trip was a fun one.  I went with a group and climbed a mountain!  Daimonji Yama!  The hike was really steep and entirely uphill, but the views of Kyoto were absolutely worth it.  Plus it was great exercise.  But it was so cold…  Afterward we visited Ginkakuji–the Silver Pavilion.  (HINT: It’s not silver…)  So overall, Kyoto so far has been a major destination for me.

One thing that keeps irking me is how everyone keeps telling me that basically everything I’ve seen looks better in Spring.  With the cherry blossoms out, it makes perfect sense, but it sometimes makes me undervalue my experience with the cold, dead trees and gray sky.  At least I can go back in Spring!

While walking around Ryoanji, I asked my host sister what a certain sign by the lake said.  It was a warning sign, saying most of the normal things, like don’t play in the water, don’t touch the trees, and a fun one:

“Don’t catch the birds”

Hmm, this one I found to be odd.  I have yet to see if the Japanese are Olympic bird-catching champions, and if they are they are hiding it very well, with all the slow crows around here being prime targets.  But the sign did strike a powerful Japanese cultural note in me.

“Don’t catch the birds ≈ Don’t disturb the peace”

While at Ryoanji it’s very easy to see this in action.  The place is a world-famous Zen temple, and the rock garden there has been a sight for meditation for centuries.  Ryoanji has an aura of peace, as do many of Kyoto’s temples, and temples all over Japan.

Therefore it’s important to remember when leaving Ryoanji or Ginkakuji that while the bus you are on is packed to the “sardines-in-a-can-I-cannot-breathe-let-me-out-now level,” there exists another Japan: A Japan that is serene, contemplative, and endlessly beautiful.

Punctuality

Japan has an incredibly efficient mass-transportation system.  Subways and land trains link cities like Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo to their respective suburbs and the lightning-fast Shinkansen bullet trains link just about the whole country together.  Tunnels now connect all four Japanese islands!

I take a train everyday on my commute from home to school, and I absolutely love it.  The system is perfect to the point that the doors even open at exactly the same spot as the station signs say they will.  And they’re always on time!  Call it Japanese discipline.  I may be poking too much fun at the U.S. and its face mask-less sick people, but a good transit system is something that the U.S. is seriously lacking.  I mean, my Amtrak train from Chicago to New York City was delayed by six hours due to faulty signal and track conditions, and we sat still for another hour due to a derailed train in front of us.  That and the U.S.’s trains just move slow.  When I get on a bullet train I will of course comment on its already-evident superiority.  Although, in fairness, the U.S. interstate system is great in its own way.

Enjoy this station shot of the Japanese train system in all its glory:

Bikes, Bikes, Bikes!

Japan has a LOT of bikers.  There are always people in sight on any major road who are riding bikes.  The catch is, oddly, that Japan is an incredibly NOT biker-friendly!  For instance, mostly all roads have drainage trenches alongside them.  These ditches are sometimes, but mostly not, covered by grates.  What this results in is a disastrous accident always waiting to happen.  Put together with the extremely narrow roads and there seems to be a situation.

 

The good news?

I DON’T BIKE

 

Yes, but to be fair, for all of the unsafe possibilities, Japan seems to be very safe for bikers.  I have yet to see an accident or anything close to one.  Maybe Japanese drivers are just much more conscious of hazards and are overall better drivers.  I feel that in the US there would be accidents everyday.

Moving on, I have moved into my home stay.  The family is very nice and encouraging to my Japanese learning.  Unfortunately, I don’t yet know enough Japanese to communicate very freely, but hopefully that will come with exposure and practice.

Onward to another topic–the famous Japanese face mask!  Here in Japan, people wear masks when they are sick.  The white ones that you wear when working on construction or something.  Sick people wear them here to prevent others from getting sick.  This to me is a very selfless act–someone ALREADY sick wearing a mask for no reason other than to prevent others from getting sick.  Somehow I can’t picture many people caring as much in the US, although I can’t say I mind.  The mask phenomena is taken a step further though, when non-sick people wear them to AVOID getting sick in the first place.

Hmm…

What I mean to say is that is very different getting on your morning train commute to see several passengers wearing masks.  It’s not something I’m used to, however the overall idea is certainly a good one.  Get sick, wear a mask, problem solved!

In the meantime, you can ride a bike to get some fresh air!

Japan and Vending Machines

An odd title for a first post in Japan, but honestly it is–in my opinion–a good title.  Vending machines are huge in Japan, and they are literally everywhere, on the street, down a dark alley, behind grocery stores, and all over my campus.  On thing that is very different is that the Japanese do not generally drink/eat and walk at the same time.  So when you get something from these machines, you are expected to stand there and drink it, then throw it away.  I have been trying to adjust to this unspoken custom, and while I don’t enjoy chugging Cokes while standing still, I have noticed some weird looks when I take it walking.  It is a great time to socialize with people and enjoy a beverage.  It’s a lot like their way of taking baths– get clean first and then get in the bathtub.  Baths can be either comfortable, solitary experiences or social gathering times.  Likewise, walk time is not drink time, they are two separate things, so they are done separately.

 

People here are incredibly nice and patient, however not being able to speak or read much of the language really gets frustrating quickly.  I have adopted a practice of pointing at a menu and ordering whatever it is, and it has not yet let me down.  The food is always very good here, although the smaller portions often leave me hungry.  Hard to adjust from American portions.

 

Cars drive on the left.  One of my new friends almost got hit by a car, so it’s something to adjust to.  The train and bus system is incredible and very easy to use, even for a foreigner.  I went on a tour to Kyoto yesterday, a place that I’m sure I’ll visit many times.  Temples are everywhere, and we visited the Golden Pavilion.